Second Glance

One of the aspects that I enjoy most about compiling this blog is that I get the chance to profile models whose work I admire and that perhaps have been overlooked in the fashion industry. Twenty-three year old Dutch model Marloes Horst is a perfect case in point. Originally discovered in 2007, Horst was catapulted into the modelling's major league when she was cast in the Spring/Summer 2009 Prada show alongside a slew of Dutch models including Bette Franke, Ymre Stiekema, Cato Van Ee and Lara Stone. A deluge of bookings followed including campaigns for Valentino fragrance, Sportmax Code, Iceberg, and editorial appearances in Dazed & Confused, V magazine, Vogue Russia, and the Italian editions of Elle, Flair, Amica, and Marie Claire.

Marloes Horst
Photographer - Dan Martensen
Source - thefashionspot.com

More than meets the eye
Free People - S/S 2010
Photographer - Thomas Wolfe Northcut
Source - thefashionspot.com

Horst's classic blue-eyed, blonde, bombshell looks and va-va-voom physique should have played to her advantage but instead she found herself reluctantly cast in the ilk of a commercial model, more suited to lingerie and swimsuit clients. The buzz surrounding Horst gradually dissipated and she was no longer as sought after on the international show circuit nor for high fashion editorial work. Realising that Horst's modelling options had stalled, her management team at Next Models went into overdrive to strategically reposition the budding model on the market by paring back her bookings and through careful selection of the types of jobs that she would take on. 

Harpers Bazaar Australia - March 2012
Photographer - Will Davidson
Source - fashiongonerogue.com

Australian Vogue - February 2012
Photographer - Nicole Bentley
Source - thefashionspot.com

W Magazine - June 2011
Photographer - Santiago Sierra
Source - models.com

Allure - June 2011
Photographer - Nicholas Moore
Source - the fashionspot.com

The past twelve months have played witness to Horst displaying a stunning versatility in editorials for a diverse range of publications including W, Intermission, Muse, French Revue de Modes, Dazed & Confused, Allure, US Glamour, and the Australian, Mexican and Spanish editions of Vogue. Don't get me wrong, Horst is still capable of donning a swimsuit with her trademark sex appeal, the difference now though is that she does so with a high fashion slant. In an interview with digitaldiamonds.de Horst reveals that, "The agency always tells what kind of jobs I'm on option for and they advise me. You talk about what way you and your agency want to present and push you. Every model has her own road to take."  With lucrative bookings for the likes of Victoria's Secret, Pirelli Calendar, Calvin Klein Swimwear and Sisley, Horst is well and truly back in the winner's circle.

Dazed & Confused - September 2011
Photographer - Kacper Kasprzyk
Source - models.com

Marlon Texeira & Marloes Horst
Vogue Espana - December 2011
Photographer - Bruce Weber
Source - thefashionspot.com

Intermission - Fall/Winter 2011
Photographer - Patrick Selstedt
Source - thefashionspot.com

Vogue Australia - February 2012
Photographer - Nicole Bentley
Source - fashiongonerogue.com

French Revue de Modes - Fall/Winter 2011
Photographer - Thierry Le Goues
Source - models.com

Sisley Campaign  - S/S 2011
Photographer - Terry Richardson
Source - thefashionspot.com

Calvin Klein Swimwear - S/S 2011
Photographer - Sebastian Kim
Source - models.com

Better With Age

Hot on the heels of Saskia de Brauw and Aymeline Valade comes twenty three year old classic French beauty Julia Frauche. Frauche was the standout star of the Spring/Summer 2012 collections in September with "who's that girl" appearances at Calvin Klein, Altuzarra, Jason Wu, Reed Krakoff, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Celine, Balenciaga, Chanel, Chloé, Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana and Marni. With a show list that reads like the who's who of the fashion elite, you could be forgiven for assuming that Frauche was yet another overnight modelling success story. Scouted at the age of sixteen in the south of France, Frauche had zero interest in modelling and was focused instead on her education. Upon graduation, Frauche relocated to Paris to attend college and was approached again to model. It was at this time that Frauche chose to give modelling a try.  

Intermission - December 2011
Photographer - Greg Harris
Source - models.com

Dazed & Confused - January 2012
Photographer - Yelena Yemchuk
Source - models.com

Intermission - December 2011
Photographer - Greg Harris
Source - models.com

Following five years of grunt modelling, scraping by with commercial editorial work and money jobs to pay the bills, Frauche switched representation to Next Model Management and decided to give the show circuit one final shot. In an interview with the Cut, Frauche explains "I have been doing this job for five years and I was like, "Okay this is my last chance. I'm going to try the shows and this is going to be the last time for me." The gamble paid off, with Frauche charming casting agents and designers with her mature outlook and womanly allure. Dubbed "baby Raquel" by casting agent James Scully for her likeness to Brazilian supermodel Raquel Zimmermann, Frauche is self-effacing in spite of the buzz surrounding her new found success. Speaking again with the Cut, Frauche recalls "This season, everyone was like, "Oh you're baby Raquel." But it's a really good compliment for me; I'm really happy about it because I love her. She's beautiful, and I hear she's nice, too."

US Vogue - January 2011
Photographer - Mariano Vivanco
Source - thefashionspot.com

Julia Frauche & Olivier Rousteing
US Vogue - January 2011
Photographer - Mariano Vivanco
Source - thefashionspot.com

Frauche has since landed on the pristine pages of American Vogue, Paris Vogue, German Vogue, Dazed & Confused, Intermission, and French Numero, displaying an insouciance and a versatility that women of all ages can relate to. The recent success stories of models well into their twenties, like Kati Nescher and Frauche, heralds a shift in the fashion paradigm towards models that women can identify with rather than a fifteen year old playing dress-ups. As Frauche reveals succinctly to the Cut, "I was a really shy person when I started, so it took time for me to learn how to communicate with people. I learned by travelling, being by myself all the time. I'm more mature now and I know what I want to do." It is this confidence and innate sense of self, coupled with a beauty that is mesmerising which will have Frauche marked as one of the definitive models of the next generation.

US Vogue - February 2012
Photographer - Raymond Meier
Source - thefashionspot.com

US Vogue - February 2012
Photographer - Raymond Meier
Source - thefashionspot.com

Numero - November 2011
Photographer - Liz Collins
Source - models.com

Numero - November 2011
Photographer - Liz Collins
Source - models.com

In Full Bloom

When Seattle native Kendra Spears first emerged on the modelling scene in 2008 via the My Space component of the Ford Supermodel competition, her all-American good looks, killer physique and perfectly placed beauty spot drew instant comparisons to iconic model Cindy Crawford. Spears placed second in the competition, losing out to Korean model Hyoni Kang, but was nevertheless signed by Ford Models to a three year modelling contract. With glamazon looks that hark back to the days of the original supermodels, Spears quickly made her mark at the Spring/Summer 2008 collections in Milan and Paris where she walked for the likes of Gucci, Christian Lacroix, Costume National, Lanvin, and Valentino.

Kendra Spears
Vogue China - January 2010
Photographer - Lachlan Bailey
Source - models.com

Spears' instant runway success parlayed into editorial favour with publications such as Italian Flair, Numéro, Italian Amica, Cover Magazine and Another Magazine. In 2009, Spears parted company with Ford Models, signing instead with Next Model Management and continued her ascent up the modelling ranks, landing on the covers of French Revue de Modes and Dazed & Confused. Spears' big break however came when she was chosen to star alongside models Ymre Stiekema, Julia Hafstrom and Anna de Rijk in the Fall/Winter 2009 Prada campaign shot by Steven Meisel.

Cover - November 2008
Photographer - Rick Shaine
Source - nymag.com

Italian Flair - May 2009
Photographer - Chad Pitman
Source - fashiongonerogue.com

Another Magazine - S/S 2009
Photographer - Willy Vanderperre
Source - models.com

Cover - November 2008
Photographer - Rick Shaine
Source - nymag.com

French Revue de Modes - Issue 14
Photographer - Thierry Le Goues
Source - bellazon.com

Dazed & Confused - July 2009
Photographer - Mariano Vivanco
Source - models.com

Kendra Spears & Ymre Stiekema
Prada - Fall/Winter 2009
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - models.com

Spears has since established herself as a versatile model with long-term career prospects thanks to editorial appearances in a diverse range of publications including Muse, Exit, the Last Magazine, US Harpers Bazaar, LOVE Magazine, 10 Magazine and virtually every international edition of Vogue. Campaign appearances for Calvin Klein White Label, Diane Von Furstenberg, Etro, Stefanel, the GAP and the Limited, illustrate Spears' widespread commercial appeal.

I have been a supporter of Spears since her early days in the modelling industry. Her looks are reminiscent of a bygone era when models looked, well Super. Currently ranked number 41 on the models.com list of Top 50 models, I have a strong inkling that 2012 will be the year in which Spears realises her full potential. Spears, who has been juggling modelling with sociology studies at Portland University, returned to the runway at the Spring/Summer 2012 collections looking more blue chip than ever at Chanel, Lanvin, DSquared2, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci and Burberry Prorsum amongst others. With her professional work ethic, chameleon-like looks and effervescent personality, Spears is primed to take her place amongst the top tier models in the industry.

Kendra Spears
Photographer - Terry Richardson
Source - terrysdiary.com

The Last Magazine - S/S 2010
Photographer - Lachlan Bailey
Source - thefashionspot.com

British Vogue - August 2010
Photographer - Ben Weller
Source - nymag.com

LOVE - Spring 2010
Photographer - Angelo Pannetta
Source - nymag.com

Spanish Vogue - February 2011
Photographer - Jason Kibbler
Source - thefashionspot.com

Muse - December 2011
Photographer - Mariano Vivanco
Source - fashiongonerouge.com

French Numéro - April 2011
Photographer - Sean & Seng
Source - models.com

Kendra Spears & Toni Garrn
Paris Vogue - December 2011
Photographer - Theo Wenner
Source - thefashionspot.com

Exit - December 2011
Photographer - Benny Horne
Source - fashiongonerogue.com

All-American Beauties
Arizona Muse, Jacquelyn Jablonski, Kendra Spears & Karlie Kloss
US Vogue - February 2011
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - fashiongonerogue.com

Kendra Spears & Ming Xi
Diane Von Furstenberg - S/S 2011
Photographer - Glen Luchford
Source - nymag.com

Kendra Spears, Edita Vilkevicuite & David Smith

cK White Label - S/S 2011

Photographer - Alasdair McLellan

Source - models.com

Jacquelyn Jablonski, Ieva Laguna & Kendra Spears

Stefanel - S/S 2010

Photographer - Mario Testino

Source - models.com

Catherine The Great

In 2007, a then seventeen year old Catherine McNeil flew to Paris to meet with famed photographer Mario Testino. McNeil made quite an impression. Testino immediately booked the Brisbane beauty to appear in the Fall/Winter 2007 Hugo Boss and D&G campaigns, and signed her to a six month exclusive editorial contract. Marked by the New York Times as a "model to watch", McNeil went on to eclipse the runways of Milan and Paris logging a blinding 35 show tally in her debut season with appearances at Versace, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and Chanel.

Early Days
Photographer - Unknown
Source - thefashionspot.com

McNeil's runway blitz translated into editorial gold with appearances on the covers of V Magazine, Paris Vogue, French Numero, Russh Magazine and Australian Vogue. Most importantly though, McNeil received the ultimate endorsement from US Vogue's editor-in-chief Anna Wintour. In an interview with the Sunday Telegraph McNeil's former agent Stephen Lee at Next, reveals that after having come from a meeting with the most powerful woman in fashion, "Anna said that she wants Catherine to be an absolute, total Vogue girl. No Harper's or anything - just Vogue. Anna says Catherine epitomises everything that Vogue wants to stand for now."

US Vogue - August 2008
Photographer - Steven Klein
Source - bellazon.com

US Vogue - September 2008
Photographer - Patrick Demarchelier
Source - bellazon.com

US Vogue - December 2008
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - bellazon.com

US Vogue - February 2008
Photographer - Raymond Meier
Source - bellazon.com

US Vogue - March 2009

Photographer - Mario Testino

Source - thefashionspot.com

US Vogue - September 2008
Photographer - Steven Klein
Source - models.com

US Vogue - December 2008
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - models.com

The buzz surrounding McNeil was palpable with designers, photographers and casting directors lauding praise over the newcomer. Angus Munro of AM Casting was gushing in his assessment of McNeil in an interview with V Magazine, "There aren't enough superlatives to describe the arrival of this young Australian on the scene. Models with true star quality are extremely rare but Catherine has is all - the grace, the stature, the perfect blend of strength and beauty, and, perhaps most importantly, the brains and the sense of humour. These qualities combined are going to make her a household name." Influential casting agent James Scully echoed these sentiments speaking with New York Look, "Her cat eyes, her hair - they don't make many girls like this!"

Numéro - September 2008
Photographer - Horst Diekgerdes
Source - bellazon.com

i-D Magazine - October 2008
Photographer - Amy Troost
Source - bellazon.com

German Vogue - June 2008
Photographer - Horst Diekgerdes
Source - bellazon.com

Numéro - February 2008
Photographer - Greg Kadel
Source - bellazon.com

Paris Vogue - June/July 2007
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - bellazon.com

V Magazine - Issue 47
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - models.com

Australian Vogue - January 2010
Photographer - Richard Bailey
Source - bellazon.com

McNeil delivered on such high expectations with back to back campaigns for Hugo Boss as well as campaigns for Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier, Donna Karan, the GAP, Uniqlo, Givenchy, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior. Editorial appearances in i-D, V Magazine, Harper's Bazaar, Numero, W Magazine, Russh, and virtually every international edition of Vogue, confirmed McNeil as a bonafide star amongst the current generation of models.

Hugo Boss - F/W 2007
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - bellazon.com

Louis Vuitton - Resort 2009
Photographer - Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott
Source - nymag.com

Dolce & Gabbana - Resort 2009
Photographer - Steven Klein
Source - nymag.com

Donna Karan - F/W 2007
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - nymag.com

Givenchy - F/W 2010
Photographer - Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin
Source - models.com

For the past year McNeil has been on a somewhat self-imposed hiatus from modelling. Rumours abound with personal issues, burn out and health concerns, all cited for McNeil's absence from the modelling circuit. McNeil, who had recently jumped ship from Next Model Management to Ford Models, reemerged at the Spring/Summer 2012 collections in September with a renewed vigour and a new look. McNeil's return to the catwalk signals perhaps a shift in the the marketing of McNeil thanks to her management team at Ford. Instead of her sultry trademark cascading auburn locks, McNeil turned more than a few heads with a more subdued, sophisticated navel grazing bob.

Polaroid shot
Courtesy of Next Model Management

In an interview with Frockwriter, Ford Models agent Doll Wright sheds some light on McNeil's journey, "Life is a rollercoaster and these girls go through so much, they're worked to the bone. Some burn out or fade out and are never heard of again. Or they do have some fire in their belly and they come back bigger and better than ever before. And in the case of Catherine McNeil, that's what it's going to be." McNeil's runway appearances at Hermés, Jean Paul Gaulthier, Viktor & Rolf, Haider Ackermann, Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, Pringle of Scotland and Matthew Williamson during the Spring/Summer 2012 collections, suggest that the fashion industry is ready to embrace McNeil back into its fold.

Comeback Trail
Matthew Williamson - S/S 2012
Photographer - Yannis Vlamos

Gareth Pugh - S/S 2012
Photographer - Marcus Tondo

Hermés - S/S 2012
Photographer - Alessandro Viero

Jean Paul Gaultier - S/S 2012
Photographer - Yannis Vlamos
All runway images courtesy of style.com

Catherine's Creed
Photographer - Andrew Weir
Source - andrewsdiary.com