The Dark Side of Calvin Klein

If Calvin Klein's Fall/Winter 2012 show is anything to go by, this year is shaping up to be the year of the brunette. Francisco Costa's line-up featured a predominance of brunettes including faces of the season, Kati Nescher, Lara Mullen, Marte Mei van Haaster, Mackenzie Drazan, Ava Smith and Nadja Bender. Casting duo Maida Gregori Boina and Rami Fernandes, who are known for their uncanny ability to forecast model trends, selected Berlin native Franzi Mueller and Polish newcomer Agata Rudko to open and close for Costa's modestly restrained collection. Also featured in the cast were Martinique beauty Cora Emmanuel, comeback kid Ymre Stiekema, Hungarian ingenue Kate Kondas and the revitalised Patricia Van der Vliet sporting a razor sharp, blunt bob. With a client roster that includes Jil Sander, Costume National and Hakaan, Maida and Rami can change a model's prospects from woe to go in a nanosecond.

Show Opener - Franzi Mueller
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012

Closing Proceedings - Agata Rudko
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012

Kate Kondas
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012

Lara Mullen
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012

Mackenzie Drazan
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012

Kati Nescher
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012

Patricia Van der Vliet
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012

Ava Smith
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012

Cora Emmanuel
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012

Marte Mei van Haaster
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012

Ymre Stiekema
Calvin Klein - F/W 2012
Photographer - Monica Feudi
Source - style.com

Super Contenders

Joseph Altuzarra's Paris meets Marrakech collection was brought to life on the runway by an extraordinarily beautiful group of newcomers. Last season's breakthrough faces Sui He, Nyasha Matonhodze, Xiao Wen Ju and Julia Frauche led the charge alongside some clear contenders for the current Fall/Winter 2012 collections. With only a few more days left of New York Fashion Week, Kati Nescher, Maria Bradley, Marte Mei Van Haaster, Nadine Ponce, Nadja Bender and Ava Smith have clocked serious runway mileage at only the most influential, trendsetting shows. From Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, Prabal Gurung, Helmut Lang, Jason Wu and BCBG Max Azria, one thing is clear a new generation of models is primed to takeover with equal measures of attitude and beauty.

Sui He
Altuzarra - Fall/Winter 2012
Photographer - Marcus Tondo
Source - style.com

Nadine Ponce

Ava Smith

Julia Frauche

Maria Bradley

Kati Nescher

Nyasha Matonhodze

Nadja Bender

Marte Mei van Haaster

Xiao Wen Ju
Altuzarra - Fall/Winter 2012
Photographer - Marcus Tondo
Source - style.com

Alexander Wang's All Star Cast

What do Maria Bradley, Aymeline Valade, Britt Maren, Mirte Maas, Freja Beha Erichsen, and Raquel Zimmermann all have in common? Well, they were all marked for success by designer Alexander Wang who selected each model previously to open for his collections. With all eyes firmly cast on Wang's  Fall/Winter 2012 show on Saturday, Danish newcomer Nadja Bender emerged in opening slot, as the model who will be most coveted for the season ahead. 

As is the case at Alexander Wang, the show's line-up consisted of an all-star mix of newcomers, established models and iconic faces. Nineties supermodels Shalom Harlow, Gisele Bundchen, Karolina Kurkova, Carmen Kass, Querelle Jansen, Frankie Rayder and Elise Crombez were joined by the current generation of stars; Abbey Lee Kershaw, Anja Rubik, Joan Smalls, Natasha Poly, Karmen Pedaru, Jourdan Dunn, Aymeline Valade and Liu Wen. Amongst such a stellar line-up of talent, a new generation of models emerged from the fray unscathed. Lara Mullen, Maria Bradley, Kati Nescher, Ava Smith, Josefien Rodermans, Laura Kampman, and Nadja Bender looked right at home amongst the seasoned pros.

Opening Slot - Nadja Bender
Alexander Wang - F/W 2012

Laura Kampman

Lara Mullen

Ava Smith

Maria Bradley

Anja Rubik

Liu Wen

Jourdan Dunn

Frankie Rayder

Karolina Kurkova

Gisele Bundchen

Shalom Harlow

Josefien Rodermans

Joan Smalls

Abbey Lee Kershaw

Carmen Kass
Alexander Wang - F/W 2012
Photographer - Monica Feudi
Source - style.com

In the Line of Fire

ACW Worldwide draws a who's who of modelling's elite to its annual casting at the Hudson Hotel library to pose and strut in front of founder Andrew Weir and his team of model makers and breakers. Weir who casts shows for Thakoon, Jen Kao, Rachel Zoe and Rebecca Taylor amongst others, was on the lookout for the next big thing amongst the scores of model hopefuls. Last Saturday, Weir and his team put 300 to 400 models from every reputable New York agency through their paces, culminating with each model being photographed against the library's curtained off windows. Weir reveals to fashionista.com his criteria for getting noticed, "You're not gonna do a show with us unless you can walk. You have to be the complete package. There are some amazing girls that are so beautiful but if they can't walk, maybe next season. In my ten years of experience, I find that if you do use a girl that's a bit wobbly, it just breaks the continuity and effects people in the audience."

As for the future, Weir has his eyes planted firmly on Asia as the next hottest scouting region and reveals to lookbooks.com, "I have never seen so many Asian kids in the market." Weir waxes rhapsodically over Nepalese newcomer Varsha Thapa, "Everyone's going to be talking about Varsha", and referring to her walk adds, "What is that? Are you crazy? That's in your blood, you don't learn that. You think you know what a girl's gonna do, but you never do..." Likewise, Weir gushes to style.com over newcomer Roberta Narciso, "She's from Angola, so she'll walk like royalty." and cannot contain his enthusiasm after seeing her walk, "Oh my God, that is crazy. This does not happen in America." Judging by the photos below, the competition was fierce and wrought with tension. Good luck to all of the models in attendance and we look forward to seeing some of you at New York Fashion Week.

Walking the Line
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Models of Composure
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Ranya Mordanova
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Karlina Caune
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Under Pressure
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Ava Smith
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Cora Emmanuel has her eyes on the prize
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Marihenny Pasible
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

No Sweat - Sui He
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

You Better Walk - Ajak Deng
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Diversity Rules
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Marihenny Pasible & Unknown
Photographer - TK Stewart-Deely
Source - fashionista.com

Arlenis Sosa in Action
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Arlenis Sosa & Andrew Weir
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Prized Possession - Varsha Thapa
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Patience is a Virtue
Photographer - Dan Nguyen
Source - danwin.com

Melissa Tammerijn
Photographer - TK Stewart-Deely
Source - fashionista.com

Comeback Kid - Tanya Dziahileva
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Samantha Gradoville
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

So Young Kang & Hyoni Kang
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Mina Cvetkovic
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

These boots were made for walking
Photographer - TK Stewart-Deely
Source - fashionista.com

Make or Break
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Blurred Lines
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Marina Nery
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Jeneil Williams
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Priscilla Kabeya
Photographer - TK Stewart-Deely
Source - fashionista.com

Arlenis Sosa
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

In the Wings
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Final Call
Photographer - TK Stewart-Deely
Source - fashionista.com