In the Line of Fire

ACW Worldwide draws a who's who of modelling's elite to its annual casting at the Hudson Hotel library to pose and strut in front of founder Andrew Weir and his team of model makers and breakers. Weir who casts shows for Thakoon, Jen Kao, Rachel Zoe and Rebecca Taylor amongst others, was on the lookout for the next big thing amongst the scores of model hopefuls. Last Saturday, Weir and his team put 300 to 400 models from every reputable New York agency through their paces, culminating with each model being photographed against the library's curtained off windows. Weir reveals to fashionista.com his criteria for getting noticed, "You're not gonna do a show with us unless you can walk. You have to be the complete package. There are some amazing girls that are so beautiful but if they can't walk, maybe next season. In my ten years of experience, I find that if you do use a girl that's a bit wobbly, it just breaks the continuity and effects people in the audience."

As for the future, Weir has his eyes planted firmly on Asia as the next hottest scouting region and reveals to lookbooks.com, "I have never seen so many Asian kids in the market." Weir waxes rhapsodically over Nepalese newcomer Varsha Thapa, "Everyone's going to be talking about Varsha", and referring to her walk adds, "What is that? Are you crazy? That's in your blood, you don't learn that. You think you know what a girl's gonna do, but you never do..." Likewise, Weir gushes to style.com over newcomer Roberta Narciso, "She's from Angola, so she'll walk like royalty." and cannot contain his enthusiasm after seeing her walk, "Oh my God, that is crazy. This does not happen in America." Judging by the photos below, the competition was fierce and wrought with tension. Good luck to all of the models in attendance and we look forward to seeing some of you at New York Fashion Week.

Walking the Line
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Models of Composure
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Ranya Mordanova
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Karlina Caune
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Under Pressure
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Ava Smith
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Cora Emmanuel has her eyes on the prize
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Marihenny Pasible
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

No Sweat - Sui He
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

You Better Walk - Ajak Deng
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Diversity Rules
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Marihenny Pasible & Unknown
Photographer - TK Stewart-Deely
Source - fashionista.com

Arlenis Sosa in Action
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Arlenis Sosa & Andrew Weir
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Prized Possession - Varsha Thapa
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Patience is a Virtue
Photographer - Dan Nguyen
Source - danwin.com

Melissa Tammerijn
Photographer - TK Stewart-Deely
Source - fashionista.com

Comeback Kid - Tanya Dziahileva
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Samantha Gradoville
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

So Young Kang & Hyoni Kang
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Mina Cvetkovic
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

These boots were made for walking
Photographer - TK Stewart-Deely
Source - fashionista.com

Make or Break
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Blurred Lines
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Marina Nery
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Jeneil Williams
Photographer - Dag Bennstrom
Source - models.com

Priscilla Kabeya
Photographer - TK Stewart-Deely
Source - fashionista.com

Arlenis Sosa
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

In the Wings
Photographer - Richard Guaty
Source - fashionindie.com

Final Call
Photographer - TK Stewart-Deely
Source - fashionista.com

The Rebirth

Puerto Rican native Joan Smalls is patent proof of what stellar model management can do for a models career. The evolution of Smalls has been anything but an "overnight success story". Smalls first came under my radar back in 2008 when I spotted her in Elite's online portfolio of models and in a V Magazine spread on "Powerhouse Model Agencies" which featured Smalls as part of Elite's line-up. At the time, I can recall noting Smalls' promise and wondered why she was being relegated to banal appearances in Liz Claiborne ads, Nordstrom catalogues and less prestigious editorial exposure for the likes of Cosmopolitan. Smalls' runway appearances were limited to smaller shows at New York Fashion week for the likes of Benjamin Cho and Heatherette. Here was an incredibly beautiful girl with stunning features and dimensions, yet her career was stalling before it had even started.

The Last Magazine - F/W 2011
Photographer - Karim Sadli
Source - models.com

Paris Vogue - February 2011
Photographer - Mario Sorrenti
Source - models.com

Paris Vogue - February 2011
Photographer - Mario Sorrenti
Source - models.com

V Magazine - July 2010
Photographer - Mark Abrahams
Source - models.com

In 2009, Smalls switched representation from Elite to IMG Models and her management team set about revamping her portfolio with new test shots, repositioning her in the market as a classically beautiful girl with a distinct high fashion edge. The time and resources vested in their new protegé paid dividends with Smalls landing a Spring Givenchy couture exclusive in January 2010. Hoping to capitalise on the buzz surrounding Smalls' Givenchy exclusive, IMG set about promoting Smalls to the hilt, sending her on a round of go-sees to a wide-cross section of casting directors and stylists including Andrew Weir, Russell Marsh, Michelle Lee, Karl Templer and Melanie Huynh. Backed by a management team who recognised her true potential, Smalls delivered the goods, booking Anna Sui, Prada, Burberry, Gucci, Valentino, and Yves Saint Laurent amongst others in her pivotal breakthrough Fall/Winter 2010 show season.

Industrie Magazine
Photographer - Rachel Chandler
Source - industrie.nowmanifest.com

Smalls is now indisputably one of the fashion industry's most coveted faces, appearing regularly in blue chip publications including all international editions of Vogue, V Magazine, W, i-D Magazine, and in campaigns for Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli and the GAP. In early 2011, Smalls reached the pinnacle of any model's career by signing a lucrative cosmetics contract with Estee Lauder, becoming a spokesperson and global ambassador for the cosmetics giant. Smalls success is a testament to her hard work ethic, perseverance, charming personality and to her management team at IMG. In an interview with the T Magazine, Smalls is asked whom in the (modelling) industry she most identifies with, to which she replies tellingly, "models who have worked their way to an admirable career and have taken their time to get there."

Thierry Mugler - S/S 2012
Photographer - Filippo Fior

Max Mara - S/S 2012
Photographer - Yannis Vlamos

Gucci - S/S 2012
Photographer - Monica Feudi

Carolina Herrera - S/S 2012
Photographer - Yannis Vlamos

Hakaan - S/S 2012
Photographer - Marcus Tondo

Donna Karan - S/S 2012
Photographer - Yannis Vlamos

Givenchy - S/S 2012
Photographer - Yannis Vlamos
All runway images courtesy of style.com

You've Got the Right Stuff

What do Natalie Joos, Andrew Weir, Michelle Lee, James Scully, and Ashley Brokaw, all have in common? This talented group are the masterminds behind the casting of runway shows for the likes of Zac Posen, Yigal Azrouel, Thankoon, Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Hererra, Jason Wu, Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler, and Rag & Bone, to name but a few. The job of determining which newcomers will rise from obscurity to become the most coveted faces of the season is a nearly implausible task. The Cut probes Joos et al. for their tips on who will be this seasons breakthrough models.

Valerija Sestic
Photographer - Unknown
Source - thefashionspot.com

Switzerland's Valerija Sestic is of Croatian descent and is high on casting agent Michelle Lee's must have list, "Works a striking dichotomy - while very young and fresh, she also has a domineering quality reminiscent of a young Cordula Reyer."

Beegee Margenyte
Image courtesy of Supreme Models
Source - thefashionspot.com

Lithuanian stunner Beegee Magenyte is represented by Supreme Model Management and has casting maestro James Scully backing her as this season's face to watch, "This is only Beegee's first full season, but she enters the shows with the pedigree of  having banked future editorials with Carine Roitfeld and Mario Testino. I expect her to be a hit right from the beginning of the week."

Kelly Mittendorf
Photographer - Unknown
Source - thefashionspot.com

With a Prada campaign under her belt before having set foot on an international catwalk, Kelly Mittendorf is destined for super success. Casting agent Natalie Joos concurs; "She has a more than intriguing look, with slanted wider-set eyes, a full head of curly chestnut hair, and a big smile at all times. Kelly, a proud American girl from Arizona who can be seen in the new Prada Ads, is sure to shoot straight to the top this season."

Xiao Wen Ju
Photographer - Unknown
Source - models.com

The buzz surrounding Chinese model Xiao Wen Ju from IMG Models is palpable and with casting agent Ashley Brokaw in her court, its no wonder. "A season under her belt has done wonders for her confidence. She has great presence when she walks and her face is divine. Xiao doesn't look like anyone else out there."

Julia Frauche
Photographer - Unknown
Source - models.com

Also getting the nod from casting maestro James Scully, is French newcomer Julia Frauche who is represented by Next Model Management, "My underdog of the season, she is a dead ringer for Raquel Zimmerman, who in my opinion is the ultimate chameleon with one of the best bodies in the business. Julia reminds me so much of Raquel when she started out, so I'm curious to see how her season goes. I, for one, will definitely be using her."

Senait
Image courtesy of Elmer Olsen models
Source - thef-list.blogspot.com

Canadian newcomer Senait is represented by IMG Models in New York and is another of Michelle Lee's favourite new faces, "She has an undeniable classic beauty, and a lovely personality to match."

Gertrud Hegelund
Photographer - Unknown
Source - models.com

IMG Models Gertrud Hegelund is the baby sister of model Agnete. With a current Louis Vuitton campaign is rotation, Gertrud according to Natalie Joos is destined to be amongst tis seasons most wanted. "Getrud hails from Sweden and is the younger sister of Agnete. I booked her for a Turkish Vogue editorial that came out a few months ago. She's super tall and regal, and a little bit of an enigma, and she's being kept very exclusive."

Ilse de Boer
Photographer - Unknown
Source - models.com

The wave of Dutch models continues with Andrew Weir's pick, Ilse de Boer represented by IMG Models. "Ilse has a powerful combination of features, making her one of the strongest faces I have seen in a long time."