Monday, January 10, 2011

American Icon

Since it's inception in 1964, the Sports Illustrated annual swimsuit issue has become as much a bastion of American popular culture as the Superbowl. Indeed, an appearance on the cover of the S.I swimsuit issue has been likened to the superbowl of modelling, with many a model's career being launched into the stratosphere as a result. 

The S.I swimsuit issue was the mastermind of S.I editor Andre Laguerre, who in 1964 asked fashion reporter Jule Campbell; "How would you like to go to some beautiful place and put a pretty girl on the cover?" The idea was engineered to increase readership during the winter months when sports stories were typically low. Laguerre granted Campbell autonomy over the project, from the selection of models, bathing suits and, in consultation with the managing editor, the site locations and photographers for the issue. 

Campbell soon became a powerful figure in the modelling world and can be given credit for moulding the issue into a media phenomenon by featuring models with fuller figures whom she euphemistically referred to as "healthy girls", whilst publishing the names of the models alongside the photos, thereby heralding a new supermodel era.

The S.I swimsuit issue offers models the opportunity to become a household name, often times crossing over from the world of high fashion to a more commercial market. According to S.I, the swimsuit issue has a pass-along readership of over 70 million. That coupled with the S.I franchise which includes a behind the scenes feature video of the making of the issue, calendars and diaries, means maximum exposure.

The careers of many of the world's top models have been catapulted by their appearances in the S.I swimsuit issue. Cheryl Tiegs, Christie Brinkley, Carol Alt, Kim Alexis, Kelly Emberg, Paulina Porizkova, Renee Simonsen, Elle Macpherson, Kathy Ireland, Estelle LeFebure, Karen Alexander, Stephanie Seymour, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Heidi Klum, Tyra Banks, Carolyn Murphy, Isabeli Fontana and Angela Lindvall have all made appearances. 

The release date for the 2011 swimsuit issue is slated for the 15th of February with a new generation of models vying for the cover. My bets are on Hilary Rhoda, Irina Shayk or Christine Teigen to take out the honours. The following images in the meantime, pay tribute to Jule Campbell and the contributions that she has made to the modelling industry.  


Kathy Ireland
Sports Illustrated 1989
Photographer - Paolo Curto

Christie Brinkley
Sports Illustrated 1979
Photographer - Walter Iooss Jr

Kathy Ireland
Sports Illustrated 1984
Photographer - Paolo Curto

Carol Alt
Sports Illustrated 1987
Photographer - John G. Zimmerman

Cheryl Tiegs
Sports Illustrated 1977
Photographer - Walter Iooss Jr

Kim Alexis
Sports Illustrated 1987
Photographer - John G. Zimmerman

Elle Macpherson
Sports Illustrated 1985
Photographer - Brian Lanker

Christie Brinkley
Sports Illustrated 1981
Photographer - John G. Zimmerman

Paulina Porizkova
Sports Illustrated 1987
Photographer - Brian Lanker

Christie Brinkley
Sports Illustrated 1977
Photographer - Walter Iooss Jr

Karen Alexander
Sports Illustrated 1987
Photographer - John G. Zimmerman

Cindy Crawford
Sports Illustrated 1988
Photographer - Marc Hispard

Stephanie Seymour
Sports Illustrated 1989
Photographer - Marc Hispard

Rachel Hunter
Sports Illustrated 1989
Photographer - Walter Iooss Jr

Naomi Campbell
Sports Illustrated 1992
Photographer - Robert Huntzinger

Heidi Klum
Sports Illustrated 1998
Photographer - Robert Erdmann

Christine Teigen
Sports Illustrated 2010
Photographer - Walter Iooss Jr

Dominique Piek
Sports Illustrated 2010
Photographer - Walter Iooss Jr

Bar Refaeli
Sports Illustrated 2010
Photographer - Walter Iooss Jr

Irina Shayk
Sports Illustrated 2009
Photographer - Riccardo Tinelli

Tori Praver
Sports Illustrated 2009
Photographer - Steve Erle

Hilary Rhoda
Sports Illustrated 2009
Photographer - Raphael Mazzucco

Brooklyn Decker
Sports Illustrated 2010
Photographer - Walter Iooss Jr



Friday, January 7, 2011

The infamous Paulina Porizkova

During the late eighties there was no model more ubiquitous then Czech-born Paulina Porizkova. At the age of fourteen, a friend of Paulina's sent photos of her to modelling agencies and Elite agency's John Casablancas noticed her promise. Paulina was one of the first models to truly pique my interest. My first impression of Paulina was that she was almost other-worldly, unlike any being that I could ever have envisaged.  Paulina's chiseled bone structure, luminous skin and azure blue eyes, coupled with her uncanny ability to project emotion through the camera lens, made her one of my firm favourites. It was however, Paulina's sardonic wit, honest and outspoken dialogue, and intellect which made her one of the most alluring and engaging models of her time. 

In an interview with Interview magazine in 1987, Paulina offered her own take on modelling. "My opinion of the modelling industry is that I don't like it, no - I don't enjoy being a model -  but it's a very good job. It's a good stepping stone if you want to do something else. But modelling as a state of mind - that's where you have a problem." Paulina elaborates further "It's a very plastic world. It's very superficial. People flatter each other to death every day and then the next day they decide they hate you. It's very fickle and very political." Paulina downplays her role in the creative process of modelling adding that "modelling is not a creative job in itself; photography is. What do I create? I let people play with me so they can set up what they want to do." 

Paulina's outspoken views and refreshing candour earned her a reputation in the fashion industry as somewhat of an "enfant terrible". In spite of this tag, Paulina quickly became the rarest of models whose look would eventually define the look for that decade.  During the eighties Paulina was the darling of the fashion set appearing on the covers of Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Cosmopolitan, Glamour, Mademoiselle, Self and Sports Illustrated's Swimsuit issue. In 1988, Paulina reached the very pinnacle of a model's career by signing an exclusive cosmetics contract with Estee Lauder for a reported $6 million a year.


Vogue - July 1987
Photographer - Richard Avedon

Self - June 1987
Photographer - Richard Avedon

Harper's Bazaar - May 1987
Photographer - Francesco Scavullo

ELLE - April 1987
Photographer - Gilles Bensimon

Cosmopolitan - March 1987
Photographer - Francesco Scavullo

Sports Illustrated - February 1985
Photographer - Brian Lanker
Vogue - May 1986
Photographer - Richard Avedon

Cosmopolitan - Unknown
Photographer - Francesco Scavullo

Paulina Porizkova
Photographer - Herb Ritts

Sports Illustrated - February 1985
Photographer - Brian Lanker

Paulina Porizkova
Photographer - Marco Glaviano

Sports Illustrated - February 1987
Photographer - Brian Lanker

Estee Lauder - Knowing
Photographer - Victor Skrebneski



Triple threat

In an industry that is literally inundated with hundreds of new models every season, it is a near impossibility to pinpoint which girls will go on to reach the highest echelons within the modelling world. I am hoping that 2011 will be the year that Hind Sahli, Renata Sozzi and Chrishell Stubbs will make their mark. All three models are breathtakingly beautiful with incredible bone structure, flawless skin and athletic bodies. What these three budding models also have in common, is that indefinable "it" factor which makes them not only standout but also memorable. 


Chrishell Stubbs, Renata Sozzi and Hind Sahli (center) appear alongside Bonnie Chen (far left) for Benetton F/W 2010
Photographer - Josh Olins


Turks and Caicos native, nineteen year old Chrishell is a star on the ascent. Represented by Supreme in New York, Chrishell has the kind of mesmerising beauty which will enable her to appeal to both commercial and high fashion clients. With careful management and direction, Chrishell has all the makings of a top model. During her first show season, Chrishell walked for Jean Paul Gaulthier, Diane Von Furstenburg, Catherine Malandrino, Cynthia Steffe, Vera Wang, Erin Fetherston and Ralph Lauren. Chrishell's campaign credits include  Ralph Lauren, Benetton, Pinko and H&M Urban Vibes Divided.


Erin Fetherston Spring/Summer 2010
Photographer - Yannis Vlamos
Source - style.com

Chrishell Stubbs
Source - models.com

Chrishell Stubbs
Photographer - Unknown
Source - bellazon.com

H&M Urban Vibes Divided
Photographer - U nknown
Source - fashiongonerogue.com

Chrishell Stubbs, Ruby Aldridge and Jiang Xiao Yi
Pinko Fall/Winter 2010
Photographer - Unknown


Brazilian newcomer Renata Sozzi has already appeared twice on the cover of Vogue Brazil and has only been based in New York since February 2010, where she is represented by Marilyn Model Management. Nineteen year old Renata stands at 173 cm in height and has a face made for beauty and a body predestined for Victoria's Secret fame.  Often compared to fellow Brazilian supermodel Isabeli Fontana, Renata has some big shoes to fill but is on the right path having scored editorials for Vogue Italia, French Revue des Modes and Teen Vogue as well as appearing in campaigns for Replay and Benetton.


Renata Sozzi
Photographer - Unknown
Source - bellazon.com

Vogue Brazil - September 2010
Photographer - Gui Paginini

Renata Sozzi
Photographer - Unknown
Source - bellazon.com

Renata Sozzi
Photographer - Unknown
Source - models.com

Isabeli Fontana & Renata Sozzi
Vogue Brazil
Photographer - Jacques Dequeker

Photographer - Emanuela de Paula
Source - models.com


Twenty year old Hind Sahli hails from Morocco and is represented by DNA Models in New York. Hind was photographed by Steven Meisel for the May 2010 issue of Vogue Italia and has already landed campaigns for Top Shop, Benetton and Armani Jeans. The 178 cm beauty has walked for the likes of Herve Leger, 3.1 Philip Lim, Isaac Mizrahi, Vera Wang, Louis Vuitton, Kenzo and Jean Paul Gaulthier. In an interview with WWD, Hind reveals her lofty aspirations; to appear on the the cover of Vogue and to tread the runway for Victoria's Secret.


Hind Sahli
Photographer - William Lords

L'Officiel Morroco - June/July 2010
Photographer - Alvaro Beamud

Hind Sahli
Photographer - Saloi Jeddi
Source - bellazon.com

BCBG Spring/Summer 2010
Photographer - Marcio Madeira
Source - style.com

Armani Jeans Spring/Summer 2010
Photographer - Takay