Wednesday, July 27, 2011

The Way You Make Me Feel

The relationship between a designer and muse can be instrumental in making or breaking a model's career. No other designer has inspired such devotion amongst models as the pint-sized Tunisian-born French designer Azzedine Alaia. Alaia is as well known for his body accentuating, skin tight sculptural silhouettes as he is for the fidelity and enduring nature of his friendships with models like Veronica Webb, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell to name but a few. 

In spite of having worked closely with some of the world's most recognisable beauties, Alaia's approach has always been one based on humanity. This perhaps is the key to why he is so adored and revered by his models. In an interview with luxuryculture.com, Alaia is asked the question "Do you have a muse?", to which he responds "I don't like the word. Everything depends on the woman you meet and dress. If it's a woman it depends on her personality, not mine. There are girls who wear clothes so well that they're more than just outfits. When a woman who loves the clothes wears them it's really an expression of her personality, and that's more important to me than any muse."

Azzedine Alaia & Linda Evangelista
Photographer - Sante D'Orazio
Source - thefashionspot.com

Azzedine Alaia Backstage
Paris Vogue - April 2008
Photographer - Bruce Weber
Source - thefashionspot.com

The close relationships between Alaia and his models have been well documented in the press. In an interview with American ELLE, Alaia reminisces about Linda Evangelista; "I just loved working with her. We felt like a family back then, because we practically lived together during the shows." Campbell in fact lived with Alaia in Paris during her early modelling days, and she along with Seymour refer to Alaia, affectionately as "Papa."

In an interview with the Independent Campbell talks in depth about her friendship with Alaia, "My relationship with Azzedine is different from those I have with other designers, because he is the only one I've lived with. I call him "Papa" and we really do have a father-daughter relationship. He really taught me everything about the business, and also taught me even more important things about life - to be yourself, to do things with integrity and to do things from the heart. One of my best memories is of when I was so overworked at one point and I just called him up and he said, "Come home, ma fille! Come home!" He cooked dinner for me and put me into bed. Then, he called up my agency and said, "Stop overworking her. She doesn't need to be doing all of these things." It's that genuine love of his that's very special to me."

Naomi Campbell & Azzedine Alaia
Photographer - Unknown
Source - douban.com

Stephanie Seymour & Azzedine Alaia
The New Yorker - November 1994
Photographer - Richard Avedon
Source - thefashionspot.com

In March 2009, Seymour met with Alaia for a tete-a-tete for Interview magazine, "Azzedine may be the designer who best understands a woman's anatomy, which makes sense because he also is a man who understands a woman's heart and soul. I began collecting Alaia when I started modelling for him as a teenager, and I own pieces that continue to astonish me every time I put them on. He even designed my own wedding dress."

Stephanie Seymour: "I have such fond memories."

Azzedine Alaia: "It made me laugh when you first visited. You were 14 years old."

Stephanie Seymour: "Yes I was. And I had never done a show in my life! I went on 20 go-sees around Paris and you were the only one who hired me. You even called your friends to try to persuade them to use me. Their response was, "Her rear is too round!" And your response was, "I think it's perfect." I was a total disaster in the shows. Your atelier was so small and you had to do three shows each day, so you just kept me on. That's when we became so close. You really took care of me, Papa."

Azzedine Alaia & Yasmeen Ghauri
Photographer - Patrick Demarchelier
Source - obssessionphoto.com


Karen Mulder, Angelika Kallio, Yasmin le Bon,
Azzedine Alaia, Gail O'Neill, Susan Homes & unknown
Photographer - Unknown
Source - thefashionspot.com

The loyalty towards Alaia amongst his coterie of models was no more apparent than when the designer's work was snubbed by the Met's "Model as Muse" exhibition. Alaia had been working on seven dresses for models including Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista and Stephanie Seymour to wear to the Met Ball Costume Institute Gala for the opening of the Exhibit at the request of the Met. When it became apparent that the designer's work and his contributions to fashion and the modelling industry would not be recognised, Alaia asked the models not to wear the dresses. Speaking with the New York Times Alaia elaborates that "It would have been silly to have seven girls wearing my dresses at the party and not have anything of mine in the exhibit."

The opening party went on without Alaia and without Campbell, Turlington, Seymour and Evangelista in attendance. A spokesperson for Campbell issued the following statement "As Naomi has been the muse of Azzedine Alaia for 23 years, she feels she doesn't want to attend unless she can represent his work." Seymour  issued the following statement "Azzedine has made my dress for every single ball. I had a fitting in Paris. But then he called me over the weekend and asked me not to wear the dress. I will still make my donation to the Met, but I won't be going."

Azzedine Alaia & Veronica Webb
US Elle - May 1992
Photographer - Gilles Bensimon
Source - thefashionspot.com

Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz,
Christy Turlington & Cindy Crawford wearing Alaia
British Vogue - January 1990
Photographer - Peter Lindbergh
Source - thefashionspot.com

Cindy Crawford in Alaia
US Elle - Circa 1989
Photographer - Hans Feurer
Source - thefashionspot.com

Laetitia Casta & Azzedine Alaia
Photographer - Olivier Zahm
Source - fashionologie.com

Alaia's Leopard print clad models
US Vogue - Unknown
Photographer - Unknown
Source - thefashionspot.com


Believe the Hype

Nineteen year old Dutch newcomer Milou Sluis is generating quite a buzz in fashion industry circles, having landed two high profile Fall/Winter 2011 campaigns for Blugirl and Armani Exchange photographed respectively by Michelangelo Battista and Matthew Scrivens. The 178 cm tall, cherub faced beauty began modelling in 2010 with Ulla Models in the Netherlands and is currently represented by DNA Models in New York. Sluis made her international debut at the Spring/Summer 2011 shows walking in smaller shows like Ashley Isham and most recently appeared in the Philosophy resort 2012 show.

Slius bears a striking resemblance to her Dutch modelling compatriots Daphne Groeneveld and Doutzen Kroes, and has the classic beauty that will appeal to designers at the up-coming Spring/Summer shows in September. I for one, am completely transfixed by Slius' incredibly expressive blue eyes, her immaculate bone structure, and her peaches and cream complexion. With such an impressive Fall/Winter campaign coup, Slius is guaranteed to be on the one to watch list of every influential casting director, designer and photographer in town. 

Photographer - WIlliam Lords
Source - ullamodels.blogspot.com

Photographer - William Lords
Source - ullamodels.blogspot.com

Yo Dona Magazine - Unknown
Photographer - Marco Laconte
Source - ullamodels.blogspot.com

Photographer - William Lords
Source - ullamodels.blogspot.com

Yo Dona Magazine - Unknown
Photographer - Marco Laconte
Source - ullamodels.blogspot.com

Elle Netherlands - March 2011
Photographer - Paul Berends
Source - thefashionspot.com

River Viperi & Milou Slius
Armani Exchange - F/W 2011
Photographer - Matthew Scrivens
Source - models.com

Blugirl - F/W 2011
Photographer - Michelangelo di Battista
Source - models.com

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Timeless Beauty

The modelling industry is like a magnet drawing beautiful women from all over the world in pursuit of fame, adulation and fortune. Every few years distinct modelling trends emerge reflecting consumer needs and demand, and the socio-economic climate. From the sexy Brazilians, to the androgynous Belgians, the ubiquitous Russians, and the current wave of models from Asia and Scandinavia, it's no wonder at times castings can resemble a veritable United Nations beauty summit.

Photographer Peter Farago and stylist Ingela Klemetz Farago celebrate the beauty of models hailing from Nordic and Baltic countries in their new photographic tome entitled Northern Women in Chanel. The photographic travelling exhibition and accompanying coffee table book features 46 of the most sought after models from Nordic and Northern Baltic states in archived Chanel collections from the past ninety years.

Freja Beha Erichsen
Source - nymag.com

Iselin Steiro
Source - thefashionspot.com

Carmen Kass
Source - thefashionspot.com

Over a period of a year the creative duo worked in close collaboration with Chanel, gaining unrestricted access to the fashion house's archives of haute couture collections. Helena Christensen, Carmen Kass, Louise Pedersen, Freja Beha Erichsen, Sigrid Agren, Iselin Steiro, Edita Vilkevicuite, Caroline Brasch Neilson, Kirsi Pyrhonen, Frida Gustavsson, Siri Tollerod and Suvi Koponen amongst others, pose for Farago amidst tundras, arctic plains and native forests in an epic visual story which melds together the worlds of photography, art and fashion.

Ginta Lapina
Source - nymag.com

Caroline Brasch Neilsen
Source - nymag.com

Sigrid Agren
Source - trouvaillesdujour.blogspot.com

Dorothea Barth Jorgensen
Source - trouvaillesdujour.blogspot.com

Kirsi Pyrhonen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Klemetz Farago's meticulous styling draws inspiration from dance, opera and art, whilst matching each model to a particular Chanel creation and setting. The resulting visuals are breathtaking and capture a unique universe in which timeless fashion is reinvented amidst ethereal and startlingly beautiful Scandinavian landscapes. The 384 page photographic book has a limited edition release of 2112 copies with profits of sales going towards the Save the Children organisation. The exhibition is currently showing at the centre of contemporary photography Fotografiska, in Stockholm, and will tour the world throughout 2011 to 2013.

Edita Vilkevicuite
Source - r1ma.blogspot.com

Iselin Steiro
Source - thefashionspot.com

Frida Gustavsson
Source - r1ma.blogspot.com

Louise Pedersen
Source - door121.files.wordpress.com

Julija Steponavicuite
Source - trouvaillesdujour.blogspot.com

Julia Hafstrom & Linnea Regnander
Source - trouvaillesdujour.blogspot.com

Vicky Andren
Source - trouvaillesdujour.blogspot.com

Linn Arvidsson & Theres Alexandersson
Source - trouvaillesdujour.blogspot.com

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Perfect Blend

Of all the Brazilian models to emerge during the late nineties, Caroline Ribeiro is my absolute favourite. Born in Belom do Para, Brazil, Ribeiro's exotic, unconventional looks were a result of her Portuguese and Amazonian Indian heritage. Ribeiro's multi-cultural looks, which were an considered a hurdle during the initial stages of her career, drew the attention and admiration of the then Gucci designer Tom Ford who cast her in his Spring/Summer 1999 show. Ribeiro became a muse to Ford, who declared that "Her face is an unusual blend of cultures"and featured her prominently in multiple Gucci campaigns.

Ford's adulation opened doors for Ribeiro to work with other fashion houses and she has since starred in campaigns for Escada, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent and cK1. Championed by the likes of Mario Testino, Steven Meisel and Patrick Demarchelier, Ribeiro was a permanent fixture in American Vogue, Harpers Bazaar and Vogue Italia. In September 2001, Ribeiro entered the holy grail of modelling when she was signed a reported $6 million dollar contract as a spokesperson for Revlon cosmetics. Ribeiro's exposure was also maximised in the same year when she was selected to walk in the Victoria's Secret runway spectacle.

During the late nineties, Ribeiro's distinct hybrid looks set her apart and drew comparisons to the iconic beauty Bianca Jagger. The 178 cm tall chameleon downplays her looks, stating that "I think my face is different, it's exotic - not like normal beauty. I don't have what you would call perfect beauty....with a face like mine I can play around." 

Vogue Italia - December 1999
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - the fashionspot.com

US Harpers Bazaar - November 2000
Photographer - Mikael Jansson
Source - thefashionspot.com

US Vogue - January 2000
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - bellazon.com

Caroline Ribeiro & Raquel Zimmerman
Paris Vogue - April 2000
Photographer - Unknown
Source - nymag.com

US Vogue - December 2002
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - thefashionspot.com

US Vogue - January 2003
Photographer - Craig McDean
Source - bellazon.com

US Harpers Bazaar - June 2000
Photographer - Richard Burbridge
Source - nymag.com

Vogue Italia - July 2001
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - thefashionspot.com

Vogue Italia - January 2002
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - bellazon.com

Caroline Ribeiro and Joao Felipe
Vogue Brasil - May 2007
Photographer - Miro
Source - thefashionspot.com

US Vogue - March 2001
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - nymag.com

US Vogue - March 2001
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - nymag.com

US Vogue - January 2003
Photographer - Raymond Meier
Source - thefashionspot.com

US Vogue - March 2001
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - nymag.com

US Harpers Bazaar - March 2000
Photographer - Richard Burbridge
Source - thefashionspot.com

Caroline Ribeiro & Jacquetta Wheeler
US Vogue - January 2003
Source - thefashionspot.com

US Harpers Bazaar - June 2000
Photographer - Patrick Demarchelier
Source - bellazon.com

Paris Vogue - May 2000
Photographer - Ruven Afanador
Source - thefashionspot.com

Vogue Italia - December 1999
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - thefashionspot.com

Gucci - S/S 2000
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - thefashionspot.com

Louis Vuitton - S/S 2001
Photographer -  Patrick Demarchelier
Source - nymag.com

Caroline Ribeiro, Jacquetta Wheeler, Carmen Kass
& Karolina Kurkova
Yves Saint Laurent - F/W 2002
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - thefashionspot.com

Johnny Zander, Caroline Ribeiro, Will Lewis & Liu Wen
ck one - 2009
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - nymag.com

Vogue Brasil - February 2001
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - thefashionspot.com

Caroline Ribeiro & unidentified male models
Vogue Italia - September 2002
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - bellazon.com

Flair Italia - February 2003
Photographer - Patrick Demarchelier
Source - thefashionspot.com

Gucci - S/S 2001
Photographer - Alexei Hay
Source - thefashionspot.com

Gucci - S/S 2001
Photographer - Alexei Hay
Source - thefashionspot.com